38.33km +1390m -1777m Two paths diverged in the woods, and I took the one with the clearly defined trail markers and cairns, because the other one is like, probably a wombat trail and goes through blackberries or some shit. I woke at 3:30 to climb Mount Bimberi by moonlight and head lamp. The track is fairly indistinct in the dark, and the rocky footpad doesn’t make for the easiest walking, but I...
33.31km +884m -736m Another foggy morning. Things are starting to look familiar. Starting to look suspiciously like the old tramping grounds. And once the fog burned away, the first real day of clear skies and sun that I can remember in forever. I decided that even though I won’t do my planned loop, I will do an out-and-back to check out Blue Waterholes since the weather is so nice. It adds an...
29.86km +544m -578m The sun is out! Photo by Rod We tried crossing the Murrumbidgee at the regular spot, but quickly decided nahfuckthis. We walked upstream a few hundred meters to these rapids: Which we tried to cross, but quickly decided it wasn’t worth dying for. Fuck you for making me get my boots wet for nothing, you overgrown creek We diverted across country to the Snowy hwy, then down Long...
27.34km +536m -781m Just a short walk to Kiandra. We decided to cut across country and shave 3km or so off the distance back to the trail. Resupply at Kiandra. Being the last one through has its perks: Thanks Ron and Jimmy for all the uneaten treats! Also in the hut last night were hikers Cameron and Jane from Dunedin in NZ. Jane is doing the AAWT southbound and her husband Cameron is supporting...
46.53km +1248m -1227m 14hrs The infant Tumut river I got mobile reception this morning received fantastic news from home: Henry Kissinger, the Forest Gump of war crimes, has finally released his talloned grasp on mortality and fucked off to hell. Celebrating the death of another human may make me ghoulish, but I’ll never be callously-responsible-for-the-deaths-of-millions ghoulish. Swings and...
22.31km +630m -833m 4am: A hut rat stole all my toilet paper in the night. I will have to improvise until Kiandra. 5am: It rained through the night again. We have to decide whether to attempt crossing the Valentine and then possibly other swollen creeks further north for 12km of slow, wet walking, or go back 4km to Valentines hut (also slow wet walking) and rejoin the official AAWT as it follows...
The rain started lightly around 8pm last night. Shortly before midnight it ramped up to downpour levels and the wind kicked in. It settled in like that and stayed that way until after sunrise. Around 9am it eased back into a steady shower with occasional gusts and made every indication that it plans to continue with variations on this theme for most of the day. We’ve pretty much resigned...
25.22km +874m -923m A terrible night’s sleep on the ground. Rose at 4am as planned just as the full moon set behind the ridge. Still an hour or so until sunrise. Breakfast by headlamp light. Stars shining through patches of dark cloud and the twin black crags of mounts Anton and Anderson, and a smear of brightening red on the horizon like a threat of violence. Photo by Rod Photo by Rod Photo by...
21.92km +720m -814m Waiting around for the post office and chairlift to open at a leisurely 9am when we’ve both been ready to walk since 7. I’m feeling like I may have eaten a little too much over the last two days. Up the chairlift! At this point I have to make an apology for the way today’s post goes. The last time I was up here I was ten, and frankly I was blown away by the splendour today. So...
So far: 515.82km +24,432m -23,624 Did some boot maintenance. I’ve got a whole day to kill and not a lot to fill it with. The Lowas have developed two small holes in the leather on one foot, probably from rubbing on the eyelet or laces. And all waxed up: I use a wax of my own making, consisting of beeswax, mink oil, clove oil and cedarwood oil. I’m not sure I’d buy Lowas again. They’ve been fine...
Hotham > Thredbo: 262.92km +10,115m -10,474m I woke up at 5am out of pure habit. Another day for maintenance and organisation. Goodbye to the terrible softdrink bottles I’ve been using since Hotham to filter my water, hello to a new Platypus bladder. I’ll have to be gentle with this one, and when I get home look into a better replacement. With all the crinkles and creases, I think capacity has...
16.37km +505m -585m It blew a gale all night again, worse by far than last night. I was worried the tarp would pull free of its stakes, but it never did. Fifteen fairly easy kilometres into Thredbo today. South Ram’s Head in the middle there, marking the start of the main range. Finally, after days of boring walking, some nice views and aspects. Even though the last few days have been shortish...
