Off Rambling

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Day 11 – Pine Valley Hut to Narcissus Hut

Distance: 18kmElevation: +700mTime: 6:45Total Distance: 215km Abels: The Acropolis (Total: 5)Music: Guilhem Desq – Le Chateau Magique There’s no such thing as shitty weather. Only shitty attitude. Anon I wake in the early hours of the night to the sound of the wind roaring through the tree tops above. Down on the first floor is quite sheltered from the wind, which comes in lulls and mighty...

Day 10 – Kia Ora to Pine Valley hut

Distance: 23kmElevation: +600mTime: 8hrsTotal Distance: 197kmMusic: The Gathering – Your Troubles are Over The steps I takeWill pave the road ahead of meI will walkI will walk The Gathering – Your Troubles Are Over There’s an air of parting ways over breakfast. It seems the bubble is breaking up, with some going the 9km to Burt Nichols hut, and others all the way to Narcissus. I’m...

Day 9 – New Pelion Hut to Kia Ora Hut

Distance: 14kmElevation: +850mTime: 6:50Total Distance: 174km Abels: Mount Ossa (Total: 4)Music: Goanna – Solid Rock How do you know if somebody’s doing a Tassie Traverse? Wait five minutes: they’ll work it into the conversation. Four degrees overnight, and I wake to a blanket of fog over the plain and Mount Oakleigh looking resplendent in the breaking dawn. With only 14km and 800vm to do...

Day 8 – Windermere Hut to New Pelion Hut

Distance: 25kmElevation: +900mTime: 7:30Total Distance: 160km Abels: Mount Oakleigh (total: 3)Music: The Steals – Stay in Silence Walking is how the body measures itself against the earth. Rebecca Solnit I suspect I’ve found myself in what’s known as a bubble. A bunch of people who aren’t walking together, but are doing the same walk at the same time. Almost everyone who was at the hut...

Day 7 – Ronny Creek to Windermere Hut

Distance: 25kmElevation: +1200m -1000mTime: 8:45Total Distance: 135km Abels: 1 (Total: 2)Music: The Devil Makes Three – Tow …and I stare up to that mountain that I know I’ve got to climb.The Devil Makes Three – Tow I fight off a couple of possum incursions during the night, but the enemy is successfully routed and flees. The zip bird is back. And one with the dawn chorus that sings...

Day 6 – Cradle Mountain Rest Day

Distance: 3kmElevation: +90mTime:0:35Total Distance: 110km Canberra’s a great city. What other capital is within walking distance of the ski fields? Me, after walking 250km from Thredbo to Tharwa I wake in the middle of the night to the sound of rustling. It’s rustlers! I lean out of my hammock and find two campground possums (a larger, less timid species of possum than the usual ones) snuffling...

Day 5 – Near Fourways to Cradle Mountain resort

Distance: 14kmElevation: +500m -500mTime:5:15Total Distance: 107km Hike your own hike (H.Y.O.H.) It rained overnight, and I wake to a dark and dank forest barely illuminated by overcast skies. I dawdle, taking time to wring every ounce of pleasure out of my coffee. After only a short walk though, the clouds lift and the sun filters through and turns the wet forest to a sparkling fairy realm. I...

Day 4 – Brookes Track to past Fourways

Distance: 28kmElevation: +1500m -1100mTime: 11:30Total Distance: 93km Abels: 1Music: Tom Waits – Long Way Home Forgive me pretty baby but I always take the long way home. Tom Waits – Long Way Home I wake before the dawn and listen to the sounds on the night-bush. There’s a bird I don’t recognise, and something moving around at ground level making a cry like a pencilcase zipper being...

Day 3 – Blackwoods Camp to Brookes Trail

Distance: 13kmElevation: +800m -600mTime: 8hrTotal Distance: 65kmMusic: Simon and Garfunkel – El Condor Pasa “There’s always a sunrise and always a sunset and it’s up to you to choose to be there for it. Put yourself in the way of beauty.” Cheryl Strayed’s mother. And Cheryl Stayed. And me. A beautiful warm night with the sound of the river rushing by. Today will be shorter...

Day 2 – Hardstaff Ck to Blackwoods Camp

Distance: 27kmElevation: +700m -650m Time: 10:00Total Distance: 52km Music: Evi Vine – I Am The Waves Keep following the lonely rivers song Go the distance A yearning to belong Found in silence With the movement of the tide Evi Vine – I Am The Waves The wind died down and after reading for a bit to the sound of kookaburras and the creek, I was out like a light. The morning is still...

Day 1 – Penguin to Hardstaff Ck

Distance: 25kmElevation: +1200m -1200mTime: 8:15Music: Heather Nova – Rewild Me I’m over the hate and I’m over the gate and I’m gone. Like a fox in the meadow, no-one on my trail, I’m gone. Heather Nova – Rewild Me I start my walk on the beach, instead of at the PCT’s official start point near the local rubbish tip. Penguin is a charming, sleepy seaside town. At least, it is...

Day Zero – Planes, Bullshit and Automobiles

It’s a bit more expensive, but it’s a hell of a lot easier than walking. The Be Good Tanyas – Light Enough to Travel [New feature: sometimes I’ll put a song here. If you don’t like it, please read quietly in uncomfortable silence punctuated only by the sound of clearing your throat.] What was the question again?– George Mallory I jump onto one last club hike before...

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