Day 32 – Hidden Bay to Mt Karamu return

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I leave my camp set up and start walking just as the sun rises above the bay. The beauty of it feels precious and somehow fragile.

The track takes a long curve inland, up and over to Ketchem Bay, taking perhaps an hour. The views are an embarrassment of riches. I could fill my day and my phone’s storage just on this section.

Walking with only the weight of a day pack feels incredibly free and easy.

As I crest the ridge and begin my descent towards Wilson’s Bight, two black cockatoos take flight, crying out. Apart from this little open stretch, this section between Ketchum and Wilson’s is mostly scrubby forest. The track is easy to lose in a few places.

Wilson’s Bight is also beautiful. I think it’s high tide, and there’s a bit of a rock scramble to get across the full length of the beach. A waterfall cascades over mossy rock. I sit and have a late morning tea. If I make it all the way to Mt Karamu it’s probably going to be a long day, but I’ll start climbing and see how I feel about it.

I pick my way along the beach, lazily combing for shells, then start the short climb over to the next beach when I hear somebody whistle at me. Startled, I look up and see this guy:

The climb up the spur is short, sharp and scrubby. There’s a fixed rope in place for some of it. Then it’s mostly an open rolling series of climbs, past the South West Cape, to the top of Mount Karamu.

I’m glad I managed to walk this far and at least have this glimpse of the rest of the SW Cape Circuit. Chapman describes the rest of the walk from here as being largely untracked and challenging, but Ed, who read the same description, said that he found there to be a decent path the whole way, minus a few wrong turns.

If I’d known that a week ago I might have tried to find the days to do the circuit. But then again, I would have been rushing. Losing those four days and having to reroute really threw a spanner in the works. Frankly I’m a little impressed that I managed to salvage the walk and get myself here.

The high peaks are open to the west and the wind is strong and terrible. Tomorrow is supposed to see 40km/hr winds, maybe more, and I guess that weather system is coming in,

I’m aware that I’ve still got quite a walk back to camp, so I wolf down some lunch and leg it back down to the beach. The wind is picking up, and I’m hoping that’s the worst of what’s coming for my walk back.

When I reach the spot where I saw the seal I move quietly, in case it’s still there. I find a mother and three pups. She seems as tired and harried as any mother of three. I stand and film them for as long as I dare, mindful of the time.

The rest of the walk back is the same, but in reverse. I take a few photos, but mostly just keep the pace up and my head down.

Crossing Ketchum bay, a sudden gust of wind catches my hat and blows it into the estuary. I have to chase it down before it washes out to sea.

I arrive back at camp shortly before 5:00. It’s been a huge day, with a lot of climbing. I discover that my solar panel, which I left in the sun all day, has only increased the battery charge by 20%. Yesterday hadn’t been a great charging day either. It’s concerning, but I’m pretty sure I’ve got enough battery to see me through the remaining seven days.

It is taking everything I have not to eat food earmarked for the days ahead. I am passing the cookie test through sheer white-knuckled self control. I allow myself one third of the liquorice log Liz gave me. A piece of chocolate coating flakes off and falls in the sand. I consider whether to try and brush the sand off and eat it. I decide not to.

A hot “tuna casserole” for dinner, and I’m in bed and reading by seven. I need a long night in bed to recover from today.