Day 31 – What rough beast, its hour come round at last, slouches toward Tharwa to be born?

38.33km +1390m -1777m


Two paths diverged in the woods, and I took the one with the clearly defined trail markers and cairns, because the other one is like, probably a wombat trail and goes through blackberries or some shit.


I woke at 3:30 to climb Mount Bimberi by moonlight and head lamp. The track is fairly indistinct in the dark, and the rocky footpad doesn’t make for the easiest walking, but I managed to make it to the peak with minutes to spare before sunrise.

I had breakfast and coffee from the peak, which sounds lovely if you’re not experiencing the cold wind sweeping across the top.

It’s a little misty to be able to see Telstra tower, but I think I can just make out Rob Roy and the southern outskirts of Canberra.

Mount Murray, coming back down Bimberi
Coronet peak

A couple of times today I’ve caught a glimpse of wild dog as they scamper off into the bush, and also a couple of snakes, though with the temperature warmer than it’s been in days, they also scamper off pretty quick.

Cotter hut. Feels like just last week I was eating lunch on those steps with Johnny Boy and the gang.
Photo by Rod

My phone cable seems to have stopped working, so we’ll see how that goes.

By 11:00 the day has turned hot and muggy. The first hot day I remember having on the trail.

Fish rock?
Blob-fish rock?
Fish rock?

It’s hot, but there’s heaps of water in the creeks from the recent rain, so I’m stopping at each stream to wash my face and dunk my hat.

The Orroral valley. It’s good to be home.

And into Honeysuckle Creek. Historically important to the space race, the Snowy Hydro system was built primarily to provide power to the giant space laser that was erected on this site in the early fifties. It played a crucial role in the Mars landing, and was involved in a number of secret anti-cosmonaut missions. It’s deconstruction in the early 90’s marked not only the end of Reagan’s Star Wars program, but of Australia’s position as an innovator in science and technology.

These cradles once held the mega-capacitors that powered the laser. Now they hold only memories.

The kangaroos and wallabies have become almost tame by constant exposure to tourists. Despite this, hikers are discouraged from attempting to use their pouches to dispose of any rubbish they don’t want to pack out.

For dinner I improvised something different: I still had a heap of homemade beef jerky, and I rehydrated that, then mixed in a bunch of instant mash potato begged from Rod and some peas and spices. It was bloody amazing. When you’ve been eating the same thing for a month, anything different is divine.

Tonight I’m going to do something I’ve kinda intended to do all trip; sleep with the tarp rolled up so I can watch the stars. Tonight doesn’t seem like it will be windy or cold or a particularly dewy morning, and what better place for stargazing than Honeysuckle Creek?

Photo by Rod

By lunchtime tomorrow I’ll be sitting outside Namadgi visitor’s centre scoffing down a cornetto. My heart isn’t ready for the walk to be over, but my poor broken body and glitchy brain are.

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By Chriṣ

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Toss me a muesli bar?

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